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Kitten Care/Introduction
These guidelines are provided to help care for your new kitten. These hints, plus tender loving care, will help keep your kitten healthy, playful and affectionate.
1. Acclimatization Please remember that this is your kitten's first time away from the only home it has known, and it will probably be insecure and confused at first. Give the baby time, and don't expect it to be best friends with you right away. Keep the kitten introduction to other family members and pets quiet and stress-free as possible. Most importantly, give it time to become used to the new surroundings. Show the kitten its litterbox, food, and water as soon as you get home and be prepared for accidents! Don't spank the baby if it misses its litterbox; simply pick it up, put it in its box and gently make digging motions with it's front paws. Young kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are--this is normal and will pass quickly. Introduce the kitten to one room at a time. When in a new area, offer encouragement and petting but allow it to safely explore and greet others. Try not to startle the kitten--remember that this is a stressful time. Stress: Your kitten has had three series of kitten vaccinations and is in good health. However, it is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a few days. She or he may also get a runny nose or eyes and/or sneeze some in the first few days after changing environment. Give lots of petting, soft speech and encouragement, and the first problems should clear up within a few days. The runny nose/sneezing is nothing serious (so long as it isn't accompanied by a fever and/or diarrhea) and should also clear up within a few days. If it doesn't, call your vet. Be aware that the kitten may cry and want to be near you the first couple of nights. Although it is completely weaned, it is used to being around many other cats and the baby misses mom, littermates and the smells of 'home'. It is scared and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s) the kitten will feel more confident. Other Pets:
If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals and do so one at a time. Do not leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain they are good friends (this may be several weeks). Be certain to give the 'old' pets plenty of attention in order to keep them from being jealous and to avoid stirring territorial instincts too strongly. It is always possible that the original pet may not take too kindly to someone new using its litterbox/food dish. Be prepared for this by giving the kitten its own litterbox and food/water dishes.
2. Food-what kind, how much, how often? Your kitten is completely weaned and has been eating dry and canned food and of course, plenty of fresh water (pet fountains are ideal, such as the Drinkwell Pet Fountain). Please introduce the kitten to any new foods gradually (over a 7-10 day period) to avoid upsetting its stomach. New food should be mixed with food the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively. Treats won't hurt the kitten's health so long as treats don't exceed 10% of the diet. Fish is not good for kittens or cats. Studies have found that the Ph in fish is not good for them. Contrary to popular belief, cow's milk is not good for cats as most cannot digest it properly and consequently get diarrhea. We recommend metal or ceramic dishes. Plastic dishes can harbor germs in the surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is small pimples on the chin which cause swelling, discomfort and can be very difficult to clear up.
3. Safety Before you let your new kitten loose in your home check for the following safety hazards...
Open refrigerators, dishwashers, microwave, ovens, washers, dryers: always check! Put away feathers and toys attached to string--such a kitty teasers--after use. Kittens and cats will often eat feathers and string.
Keep your workshop off limits. Cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power saws. They may also swallow screws, nails, wire orother small parts. Keep you cat out of the garage or wherever antifreeze is stored. Antifreeze has an attractive scent to cats but is fatal if ingested.
Some plants are poisonous to cats. Visit the following links for more information:
ASPCA: Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants
Keep all cleaning products and other chemicals (lighter fluid, furniture polish, tea tree oil, etc) stored away and out of reach. Anything with phenyl (check the label) is deadly to cats (this includes Lysol). Cats love to drink out of toilet bowls; it's wise to avoid using any chemical that lingers in your toilet. It is better to make sure the lid is down at all times. Some cats have been known to raise toilet lids, so make sure you know if your cat does this and take proper steps to keep that smart kitty safe!
Advantix (a product used for treating fleas/ticks in dogs only) is deadly to cats. Your cat(s) should not come into physical contact with a dog treated with Advantix for at least the first 24 hours after application.
We DO NOT RECOMMEND the use of clumping cat litter until the kitten is 6-8 months old; such litter can cause an intestinal obstruction.
4. Training Contrary to widespread belief, cats are trainable by proper methods: Rewards and tangible but removed punishment (see "squirt bottle training" below). Be firm and patient with your kitten. By teaching it the house rules now, you can avoid future behavioral problems. Actions that are cute in a kitten may not seem so cute in an adult (such as nursing on your arm, sitting on the dining room table or counter tops in the kitchen). If the kitten scratches its claws where it should not, say "NO!" and take it to the scratching post gently making scratching motions with its front paws. Kittens respond well to a firm voice and patience. They are naturally fastidious and want to behave. Squirt bottle training: Kitties that don't respond to your emphatic 'NO' can usually be corrected by giving them a quick shot of water from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the kitten's mind. The kitten does not begin to fear you as the source of punishment like it would if you were to spank. Never spank your kitten or cat! The squirt bottle correction should be sufficient to get your kitten to refrain from undesirable behaviors.
5. Play - When, How long, What Kind Kittens and adult Maine Coons like to play. Generally the morning or evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult cat. We try to discourage rough play as this can make the kitten aggressive. Please DO NOT roll the kitten over or grab it and vigorously rub its stomach. When you play with the kitten always use a toy, do not use your hands or feet as a toy; Imagine an adult Maine Coon attacking your feet and hands! *Young kittens will tire more easily than older kittens. Learn your kitten's limits and stop play if you see panting or signs of slowing down. Stamina and strength will increase as your kitten matures--just make sure to keep the excitement at a level and duration your kitten can handle. *Toys: Soft toys with no easy to remove/swallow pieces are good. Pom-pom or tinsel balls, catnip bags, quality furry mice and feather teasers are all good choices. With many of these toys you can have the kitten fetch, chase, pounce and jump--all good exercise for the kitten. If you use a teaser, do not leave the kitten unattended with it; the kitten may ingest the feathers, tinsel or poke itself in the mouth or eyes with the stick. *Remember that what your kitten needs most is your time and attention. If your kitten is left alone during the day it will be very glad to see you when you get home! Also kittens are sensitive, living creatures so do not allow your children, friends, or other pets to mishandle your kitten. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat it--even if inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love, and considerate play will result in a companion that will give you years of pleasure!
6. Collars and Leashes We beg you, never let your kitten run freely outside. The outdoors exposes your kitten to such potentially fatal feline diseases as Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), respiratory viruses, internal and external parasites, automobiles, and countless other hazards such as being attacked by other animals. If you choose to ignore this, chances are good that the kitten will not survive its first year. If, however, you keep the kitten inside or only take it out on a leash (as described below) life expectancy is 12+ years. If you use a collar on your kitten check it daily to be sure it is not becoming too tight as the kitten grows. Also be aware that a kitten can catch its lower jaw in a collar that's too loose. A breakaway collar is the best choice: it will separate when caught on something. If you want to train your kitten to use a leash then use a harness designed for cats as well. Don't leash a cat to its collar. Remember that harnesses and leashes are not totally secure, so a cat wearing a harness or a leash should NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat can slip out of a harness or worse: strangle itself. Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or busy sidewalk unless you are sure that the cat is very calm. The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc. can cause a cat to panic, slip out of the harness and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet yard with you!
7. Traveling When you take your cat in the car always put it in a carrier. A cat or kitten roaming around the car is dangerous for you and your cat. When you go to the vet make sure you use a carrier to take the cat into the clinic--it helps keep the cat from getting away from you in a stressful situation and protects the cat from other animals. Put a towel or pad in the bottom of the carrier and cover the carrier in cold weather. For longer trips always have water to provide and consider using a slightly larger carrier to allow for a small litter box inside. Secure the carrier with a seat belt. It is a good idea to have paper towels, pet wipes and plastic bags to clean your car in case they go potty or get sick.
8. Grooming Maine Coons coats are easy to maintain. A weekly brushing with a pin brush or small slicker brush or combing with a steel-tooth comb that has wide teeth on one end and narrow teeth on the other should do. These really are all the tools necessary for grooming your cat. You may have to brush/comb your cat more often in the spring and fall to remove shedding undercoat. Pay particular attention to the areas behind and around the ears, the ruff, flanks, britches, and under the front legs. These are the areas where mats most readily form.
Very important: Please handle, bathe, clip nails, and groom your kitten regularly so it becomes second-nature to them--it will make these things much easier to do when the kitten is an adult.
*If you wish to keep your cat looking like a champion, a bath once a month with a good shampoo, plenty of rinsing, blow drying and combing/brushing afterwards is recommended.
*If you wish to have a groomer keep you kitten/cat well-maintained, be certain you choose a professional, reputable groomer. Ask your vet office - they may know some good groomers to point you to.
Show Bath: *If the cat is oily/greasy (usually behind the ears, the ruff, the underside and tail) then start the kitty's bath by working regular GOOP (the hand cleaner) into the greasy areas on a dry coat. It helps to warm the GOOP in the microwave for 15-20 seconds to make it luke-warm and easier to massage in. Wrap the cat in a towel and hold for 5 to 10 minutes.
*If you applied GOOP as described above, put the cat in a clean, empty side of the sink and rinse out the areas where the GOOP was applied.
If your cat does not need the GOOP step, then don't do it--move on with steps below.
*In one side of the sink make a mixture of warm water, Woolite, and plain Dawn dish detergent. Temperature of the bathing and rinsing water throughout bathing should feel very warm on your inner arm. *Pour the water/Woolite/dawn water over the whole kitty (except for the head). Work into fur well and rinse. Drain the water. *Soap cat with Dawn and rinse fully. *Finally, soap the cat with MegaAussie Shampoo and rinse, rinse, rinse! *Put the stopper in the sink and rinse one more time watching the water rising in the plugged sink to see if all the soap has been rinsed out of the kitty's fur. *Using paper towels or a wash cloth dampened with clean water only, wash the kitty's head, around the eyes, nose and ears. *Squeeze out exess water from the feet and tail then towel dry as much as you can. For blow drying, we put the cat in an empty carrier with a towel in the bottom and either hold the dryer or prop the dryer at least 12 inches away from the carrier until the kitten is mostly dry. Never leave a dryer unattended and be very carefull not to use too much heat. *Let the kitten air-dry the rest of the way. Once dry, gently brush/comb the coat to remove any knots or tangles. Do not attempt to comb a wet cat as this is painful and damages their coat.
Congratulations on your new baby and family member!!! You will LOVE your easy-going, yet active, gentle Maine Coon! They are the best!!!
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