Kitten Care/Introduction

Stress: You kitten has had three series of kitten vaccinations and is in good health. However, it is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days. He may also get a runny nose or eyes, and/or sneeze some in the first few days after changing environment. Give lots of petting, soft speech, and encouragement, and the first problems should clear up within a few days. The runny nose/sneezing is nothing serious (so long as it isn’t accompanied by a fever and/or diarrhea) and should also clear up within a few days. If it doesn’t, call your vet. Be aware that the kitten may cry and want to be near you the first couple of nights. Although it is completely weaned, it is used to being around many other cats, and the baby misses mom, littermates, and the smells of "home." It is scared and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s) the kitten will feel more confident.

Other Pets: If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, one at a time. Do not leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain they are good friends (this may be several weeks). Be certain to give the "old" pets plenty of attention, in order to keep them from being jealous, and to avoid stirring territorial instincts too strongly. It is always possible that the original pet may not take too kindly to someone new using its litterbox/food dish. Be prepared for this by giving the kitten its own litterbox and food/water dishes.

Safety: Before you let your new kitten loose in your home, check for the following safety hazards:

Squirt Bottle Method: Behavior problems that don’t respond to the "NO" can usually be modified by giving the kitten a quick shot from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the kitten’s mind, which is desirable for two reasons: The kitten does not begin to fear you as the source of punishment as it would if you were to spank! Please DO NOT ever spank your kitten/cat!  The squirt bottle correction should be sufficient in getting your kitten to refrain from the undesirable behavior. 

Play – When, How long, What Kind: Kittens and adult Maine Coons like to play. Generally the morning or evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult cat. We try to discourage rough play as this can make the kitten aggressive. DO NOT roll the kitten over, grab it, and vigorously rub its stomach. This will also make the kitten become aggressive. When you play with the kitten always use a toy, do not use your hands or feet as a toy. Imagine an adult Maine Coon attacking your feet and hands! Soft toys with no easy to remove/easy to swallow pieces are good; pom pom or tinsel balls, catnip bags, furry mice and feather teasers are all good choices. With these you can have the kitten fetch, chase, pounce, and jump, which is all good exercise for the kitten. If you are using a teaser, do not leave the kitten unattended with it; the kitten may ingest the feathers or tinsel or get poked in mouth or eye with the stick. Remember that what your kitten needs most is your time and attention. If your kitten is left alone during the day, it will be very glad to see you when you get home! Please remember that kittens are sensitive, living creatures, and do not allow your children, friends, or other pets to manhandle your kitten. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat it, even if inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love, and considerate play will result in a companion that will give you years of pleasure!

Collars and Leashes: If you use a collar on your kitten check it daily to be sure it is not becoming too tight as the kitten grows. However, a kitten can catch its lower jaw in a too-loose collar. A breakaway collar is the best choice, as it will separate if it becomes caught on something. If you train your kitten to use a leash, use a harness designed for cats – not a collar. Remember that harnesses are not totally secure, and a cat wearing a harness or a leash should NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat can slip out of the harness or strangle itself. Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or busy sidewalk unless you are sure that the cat is very calm. The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc, can cause a cat to panic, slip out of the harness, and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet backyard with you.

Traveling: When you take your cat in the car always put it in a carrier. A cat or kitten roaming around the car is dangerous for you and your cat. When you go to the vet make sure you use a carrier to take the cat into the clinic. It helps keep the cat from getting away from you in a stressful situation and protects the cat from other animals. Put a towel or pad in the bottom of the carrier and cover the carrier in cold weather. It is a good idea to have paper towels in your car in case there is an accident.

Grooming: Maine Coons coats are easy to maintain. A weekly combing with a steel-tooth comb that has wide teeth on one end and narrow teeth on the other and a pin brush are the tools necessary in for grooming your cat. However, you may have to comb your cat more often in the spring and fall to remove shedding undercoat. Pay particular attention to the areas behind and around the ears, the ruff, flanks, britches, and under the front legs. These are the areas where mats most readily form. Very important: Please handle, bathe, clip nails, and groom your kitten regularly so it becomes second nature to them. It will make these things much easier to do when the kitten is an adult.

If you wish to keep your cat looking like a champion, a bath once a month with a good shampoo, plenty of rinsing, blow drying, and combing afterwards is recommended.

Show Bath: If the cat is oily/greasy, usually behind the ears, the ruff, the underside and tail, work GOOP (the hand cleaner) into the greasy areas on a dry coat. It helps to warm the GOOP in the microwave for 15-20 seconds to make it lukewarm and easier to massage into the coat. It helps to wrap the cat in a towel and hold for 5 to 10 minutes. In one side of the sink make a mixture of warm water, Woolite, and Dawn. It works best to put the cat in the empty side of the sink. Rinse out the areas where the GOOP was applied then pour the water/Woolite/dawn water of the whole kitty (except for head). Soap the cat using the Dawn and then rinse. Then soap the cat a second time with MegaAussie Shampoo and rinse. Rinse, rinse, rinse! Put the stopper in the sink and rinse one more time to be sure all of the soap has been rinsed out the hair. Then using a damp paper towel, clean the kitty’s eyes, nose, and ears. Squeeze out the feet and tail and then towel dry. For blow drying, we put the cat in an empty carrier with a towel in the bottom and either hold the dryer or prop the dryer at least 12 inches away from the carrier until cat is mostly dry. Let the kitten air dry the rest of the way. Once dry comb the coat to remove any knots or tangles. Do not attempt to comb a wet cat as this is painful and damages their coat.